29+ Designs how to grade a sewing pattern

Step One Using your ruler measure the increments between sizes. 18 at the horizontal bicep line adding a little extra length to go over a larger bicep.

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¼ between pieces B and C and between pieces C and D corresponding to the increases at the bodice side seams.

. Next there were some questions about sleeves. For example if you need to scale the pattern up one inch you would cut the pattern and spread the pieces 12 on each side. Then each of these sections grows or shrinks according to the brands size chart.

Because most standard womens patterns differ by a maximum of 2 you are only going to want to spread your pattern by ½ 24 Take your ruler and cut your pattern horizontally and vertically. Tools Pattern grading in general does not require any fancy tools. Use the lines as a guide.

I went around with my ruler and measured each area to make sure it all matched up as Im grading up this pattern significantly. For the Belcarra I am going up 3 12 sizes so I multiply my measurement from Step 1 times 35 and use that measurement when grading up. Eve Tokens aka The Creative Curator is a fashion designer creative pattern cutter and sewing pattern designerEve graduated with a 21 in Fashion Design from the University of The Creative Arts in the UK has a BTEC diploma in Creative Pattern Cutting a Foundation Degree in Art Design from Wimbledon College of Art and gained extensive experience in the fashion.

½ at the vertical line between pieces E and F corresponding to the total increase of the width of the sleeve. Now take your ruler and measure how far you need to go out from the pattern sizes and mark it. If you have trouble with a particular pattern dont forget to ask the Projectors for Sewing Facebook Group for help.

Import only the sizes you need to blend and grade between using PDF Stitcher. XL Bust M Waist XL Hip Grading Path In all cases you are simply grading your cut path between the different sizes. Your grading path would look something like this.

This will save you so much time deleting unnecessary sizes or creating layers in Inkscape. Import pattern with sizes you need. To grade this youd need to overlap the pattern pieces matching the stitching lines if the pieces include seam allowances.

Make sure you make the same changes on all your pieces and that the seams still line up after grading. Grading between different sizes on a pattern is a really simple adjustment that you can make that can really make a difference in the fit of your garment. You simply need paper that is larger than the current pattern piece so you can draw new cutting lines around it.

When creating grade rules the form is broken up into sections using specific landmarks pictured here. Sleeves and armscyes go hand in hand. Grading can be a complicated topic but when you break it down the formulas become much more manageable.

Taking the time to do this if youre measurements are further from each other will make you a lot happier with the fit of your clothing when they are all sewn up. In this way each piece is graded in only the areas it needs to be. Ashley Hough shows you how to grade a commercial pattern piece in order to increase the size.

Once this is done you can slash and spread or slash and overlap. With the bodice on the Hazel I am only grading up one size so I marked one increment. Pattern grading can be an easy way to change the size of a pattern piece.

Watch on whilst Becca gives you the low down. Its rare that any of us are one straight size in a sewing pattern.

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